Nestled within the rolling hills of Missouri, West Plains is a town that holds within its streets and structures the untold stories of a bygone era. This guide embarks you on a self-guided tour, a journey that will lead you through the heart of downtown West Plains, unveiling its rich history and cultural heritage. As you wander through its lanes, you'll find each corner whispering tales of triumph, tragedy, and time-honored tradition.
West Plains is more than just a geographical location; it's a mosaic of narratives that echo the American spirit. From the echoes of Civil War battles to the vibrant stories of local legends, this town has been a silent witness to a past that shaped not only the region but also the nation. This tour is not just a walk through the streets; it's an exploration of history, a series of stops that offer a window into the soul of a community that has withstood the test of time.
As we step into this journey, we're not just tourists or locals; we're time travelers, delving into a rich heritage that's often overlooked in the rush of modern life. This tour is an invitation to slow down, to observe, and to immerse oneself in the stories that have been meticulously preserved in the architecture, monuments, and natural landmarks of downtown West Plains.
For locals, this tour is an opportunity to reconnect with their roots, to see the familiar sights through the lens of history and gain a newfound appreciation for their hometown. It's a chance to be proud of the resilience, the character, and the historical significance that their community holds.
For visitors, this self-guided tour offers a unique experience, far removed from the typical tourist trails. It’s a chance to encounter history not in the distant artifacts of a museum but in the living, breathing streets of a town that has been a crucible of American history. Walking through West Plains is like flipping through the pages of a history book, with each step revealing a new chapter, a new story.
This guide promises to be more than just a historical narrative; it's an interactive experience that encourages exploration, curiosity, and a deeper understanding of the small-town charm that is quintessentially American. So, let's embark on this journey together, discovering the hidden gems of West Plains, and through them, a piece of the vast tapestry that is America's history.
1. Oak Lawn Cemetery: Where Stories Begin
The first chapter of our journey unravels at the historic Oak Lawn Cemetery, a sanctuary where the whispers of the past resonate amidst its solemn ambience. As you enter through the gates at East Maple and Evans Street, you're stepping into a realm that bridges the present with the echoes of West Plains' history.
At the heart of Oak Lawn Cemetery stands the “Rock of Ages” monument, a poignant tribute to the unidentified victims of the West Plains Dance Hall Explosion in April 1928. This tragedy, which claimed the lives of thirty-seven individuals and injured at least twenty-three others, left an indelible mark on the community. The monument, erected on October 6, 1929, is not just a marker of remembrance; it's a symbol of the town's collective heartache and resilience. The disaster, which led to property damage estimated at $250,000 at the time (over $4 million today), made headlines across the United States. Yet, despite extensive investigations, the exact cause of the massive blast remains a mystery, compounded by the enigmatic death of J.N. Weiser, the owner of the garage beneath the dance hall, found with the garage's doorknob in his hand.
As you wander the grounds, the cemetery transforms into a historical scavenger hunt. Seek out the Civil War cannonball, believed to be the one that struck the original Howell County Courthouse during the West Plains Civil War skirmish in February 1862. This relic is a silent witness to the time when West Plains was nearly abandoned during the war, only to be resiliently rebuilt by its returning inhabitants.
Next, find the grave of Polly the Parrot, the only known non-human buried in Oak Lawn. Polly’s story is as unique as it is poignant. Once the pet of Dr. Thomas Bradford of Marshfield, Mo., who perished in the devastating tornado of April 18, 1880, Polly was renowned for her mournful phrase, “Hey, ma. Where’s pa?” Her presence in the cemetery is a testament to the human-animal bond and the quirky tales that form the fabric of local history.
Among these unique memorials, the concrete bench marking the resting place of Alice Farmer Risley is particularly evocative. As the last known surviving Civil War nurse upon her death in 1931, Alice's story is one of courage and dedication. She served as a Union nurse in New Orleans and, post-war, moved to West Plains with her husband, Samuel Risley, a former patient and the founder of the South Missouri Journal newspaper. Together, they served as pivotal figures in the town, with Alice contributing significantly to the preservation of West Plains' early history through her writings.
The oldest area of the cemetery cradles the Langston Family Plot, the final resting place of some of West Plains' most prominent early citizens. The Langstons, influential in the town's development, encapsulate the spirit and resilience of the community's founders. The inclusion of Polly the Parrot in this familial plot highlights the warmth and character of these early settlers.
Oak Lawn Cemetery is not just a collection of graves; it's a mosaic of stories, a sacred ground that holds the memories and legacies of those who shaped West Plains. This first stop on our tour invites reflection on the fleeting nature of life and the enduring impact of history. It sets the stage for a journey that intertwines the personal narratives of West Plains' residents with the broader tapestry of American history. As you leave the cemetery gates, carry with you the solemn reverence and the sense of connection to the past that Oak Lawn Cemetery so gracefully embodies.
2. Grace Avenue: Echoes of the Past
Stepping away from the solemn tranquility of Oak Lawn Cemetery, our tour meanders northward on Evans Street, turning left onto Grace Avenue. This street, once the epitome of elegance and affluence in West Plains, is a living exhibit of the town's historical and social evolution. Known in its heyday as "Professional’s Row," Grace Avenue was the residential address of choice for the town's elite - doctors, pharmacists, bankers, and other prominent figures.
The first stop on Grace Avenue is the Evans House. Constructed in the 1880s, this imposing structure has been the residence of six generations of the Evans family. Its architectural style, reflecting the aesthetics of the period, offers a visual narrative of the evolution of residential designs over the decades. The fact that the house continues to be inhabited by descendants of the original owners provides a rare continuity, bridging past and present.
Further along the avenue stands the Knoerle/Hogan House, completed in 1897. This house was originally built by Joseph Knoerle, the superintendent of a nearby 114-acre peach orchard, signifying the agricultural prosperity of the era. The house later became the home of Dr. Robert Hogan and his wife. One street over, north of Grace Avenue, once stood the Christa Hogan Hospital, established by Dr. Hogan in a building that had previously housed West Plains College. Although the original structure no longer exists, its history is intimately linked to the Knoerle/Hogan House, reflecting the progression of healthcare and education in West Plains.
On the opposite side of the street is the McFarland House, built by John Henry McFarland and his wife, Egbertine Green McFarland, granddaughter of Union Brigadier General Egbert B. Brown. The house, a witness to the region's turbulent Civil War history, stands as a symbol of resilience. The McFarlands, through their familial connections, embody the complex narratives of war, peace, and reconciliation. The current owners' efforts to restore the house symbolize a respect for the past and a commitment to preserving it for future generations
3. All Saints’ Episcopal Church: A Sanctuary in Time
Continuing our journey through historic West Plains, we arrive at a remarkable landmark that embodies the town's spiritual and architectural heritage: All Saints’ Episcopal Church. Situated at the corner of Curry Street, this church is not only a place of worship but also a testament to the unique history and ingenuity of the late 19th century.
What makes All Saints’ Episcopal Church particularly fascinating is its origin story. In an era when mail-order purchases were becoming increasingly popular, the entire church building – and all its contents – were selected from a catalog and delivered to West Plains by train. This unconventional method of construction, a novel concept at the time, illustrates the innovative spirit of the community.
The church, built in 1888, arrived in pieces, each meticulously crafted and ready for assembly. This approach to building was not just a testament to the ingenuity of the period but also a reflection of the practical challenges faced by communities in obtaining resources and skilled labor. The church's catalog-sourced construction is a physical manifestation of the adaptability and resourcefulness of the people of West Plains.
As you approach the church, its architectural elegance immediately strikes you. The building, constructed in a traditional Episcopal style, harmonizes beautifully with its surroundings, a serene oasis amidst the bustling town. The church's design, selected from a catalog, does not detract from its beauty or significance. Instead, it adds a unique layer to its story, blending the practicalities of the era with the timeless quest for spiritual space.
Inside, the church is a treasure trove of historical artifacts, each with its own story. The pews, altar, stained glass windows, and even the organ all part of the original mail-order package, have been lovingly preserved, allowing visitors to step back in time and experience the church as it was over a century ago. These elements, selected from afar and brought together in this sacred space, create a sense of continuity with the past.
All Saints’ Episcopal Church, with its catalog-derived origin is a reminder of a time when communities adapted to the resources and technologies available to them, creating lasting monuments to their faith and tenacity. As we leave this church, we carry with us not only the serene beauty and tranquility it offers but also an appreciation for the resourcefulness and ingenuity that characterized the late 19th century in America.
4. The Heart of West Plains: Main Street and Beyond
Moving forward from the serene historical echoes of Grace Avenue, our journey brings us to the vibrant and pulsating core of West Plains - Main Street. This thoroughfare, more than any other in the town, encapsulates the evolution, spirit, and resilience of West Plains. As we delve into this bustling artery of the town, we uncover layers of history that have defined and redefined the community.
Our exploration begins at a site of paramount historical significance - the Town Spring, located beneath the Historic Post Office building. This natural spring is where Josiah Howell, the pioneer after whom Howell County is named, settled in October 1839. The spring was not just a source of water; it was the lifeblood of the early settlement. Its presence marked the birthplace of West Plains. In the 1800s, the area around the spring was a vast expanse of blue stem prairie grass, starkly different from the developed landscape of today. The name West Plains itself draws its origin from this geography - the plains west of Thomasville, another significant settlement in the region.
The Historic Post Office, under which the Town Spring runs, has served multiple purposes over the years. Initially a town library, it later became a privately owned event center. This building is a remarkable example of adaptive reuse, showcasing how historical structures can be preserved and repurposed for modern needs while maintaining their historical essence.
As we turn left onto Walnut Street and then right on East Leyda Avenue, we come across the First Presbyterian Church. Believed to be the oldest public structure in Howell County, the church stands as a testament to the religious and architectural history of the region. The original front portion of the church was built in 1885 at a cost of $4,000, a significant sum at the time. The church underwent expansions in 1910 and again in 1978, each addition mindful of preserving the church's historical integrity. The stained glass windows, original to the building, were restored in 2018, reflecting the congregation's dedication to preserving this piece of living history.
5. The Zorn Building: A Legacy in Print and Brick
As our self-guided tour continues, we arrive at one of the most historically versatile buildings in West Plains - the W.J. Zorn Building. Located on East Leyda Avenue, this structure is not just an architectural landmark but a narrative of the evolving commercial and social life of the town.
From Newspapers to Motorcycles: A Building’s Diverse Past
Constructed in 1912 by Will Zorn, the initial purpose of the building was to house the operations of the Howell County Gazette, a newspaper that played a crucial role in documenting the daily life and events of West Plains. The setup was typical of small-town America, with the newspaper office on the ground floor and the family residence above. This arrangement fostered a close connection between the Zorns and the community they served, as their home was literally above the heartbeat of town news and activities.
Over the years, the Zorn Building has undergone several transformations, each reflecting the changing needs and dynamics of West Plains. After its time as a newspaper office, it housed a bakery, adding a flavorful chapter to its history. The aroma of fresh bread and pastries would have been a familiar scent to those walking past, attracting locals and visitors alike, and contributing to the building's status as a community hub.
The building's history took another turn when it became a motorcycle shop. This phase brought a different energy to the structure, with the revving of engines and the gleam of chrome, showcasing the evolving commercial landscape of West Plains.
Today, the Zorn Building houses a law office, continuing its legacy of serving the community, albeit in a different capacity. This current usage as a legal practice signifies a shift from its previous commercial and residential roles to a professional service domain, reflecting the ongoing evolution of the town's economic and professional landscape.
An intriguing aspect of the Zorn Building's history is its connection to the Cochran family, who were long-time owners, making the Zorn building their family home. Russ Cochran, a noted publisher in the comic art industry and of the West Plains Gazette historical magazine, lived in the building with his family. The Cochrans were known for their unique pets - three chimpanzees, which they housed both in large exterior cages installed on the property and in their home. This unusual aspect of the building's history adds a layer of personal and eccentric charm to its narrative.
The W.J. Zorn Building stands as a testament to the rich and varied history of West Plains. Its transformation from a newspaper office to a bakery, a motorcycle shop, and now a law office illustrates the dynamic nature of the town's commercial and social evolution. Each chapter in the building's history adds to the tapestry of stories that make West Plains a fascinating place to explore. The Zorn Building, with its legacy in print and brick and its unique place in the town's history, is a must-visit landmark for anyone seeking to understand the multifaceted character of West Plains.
6. Courthouse Square Historic District: The Heartbeat of West Plains
At Aid Avenue, the Courthouse Square Historic District unfolds, a tapestry of architectural styles spanning from 1881 to 1950. Each building here has a story to tell, from the fireproof Aid Hardware/Downtown Antiques building to the culturally significant Catron Opera House, which reflects the prosperity brought by the railroad in the late 19th century.
7. Markers of Memory: Civil War Skirmishes and Tragic Tales
The tour takes a somber turn as we reach the Civil War Skirmish Site Historical Marker, a silent testament to the turmoil that once engulfed West Plains. The Howell County Courthouse, rebuilt multiple times, stands as a symbol of resilience, echoing tales of war, loss, and reconstruction.
8. A Walk Through Time: From Tragedy to Triumph
Our journey culminates with a walk down East Main Street, past the site of the Bond Dance Hall.
On April 13, 1928, a devastating explosion occurred in a building on East Main Street in West Plains, Missouri, leading to one of the town's saddest chapters. This tragic event, known as "the Bond Dance Hall Explosion," resulted in 38 immediate fatalities, with the death toll eventually rising to 39. The blast, originating from the Wiser Motor Co. garage beneath the dance hall, destroyed three brick buildings and caused extensive damage to the Court Square area. Half of the victims could not be identified, and a communal funeral service for the unidentified and identified victims was held on April 19, 1928, drawing an estimated 7,000 mourners, more than double the town's population. The unidentified were interred at Oak Lawn Cemetery, marked by a large headstone with 20 names, including Mabel Riley, who was identified but buried with the others to be alongside her unidentified husband, Esco Riley. The cause of the explosion remains unsolved, and it stands as one of the deadliest dancehall fires in US history.
Finally, we arrive at a chapter marked by both tragedy and the relentless pursuit of justice. This part of the tour brings us to a pivotal moment in the town's history - the shooting of Sheriff C. Roy Kelly by members of the notorious “Ma” Barker Gang on December 19, 1931.
Two nights before the fateful incident, McCallon’s Men Wear, located on the west side of the Square, fell victim to a brazen robbery. The thieves were meticulous, deliberately selecting sizes and colors from the finest clothes in the store, indicating a chilling sense of confidence and precision. A young couple reported seeing a blue De Soto car near the scene, a detail that would soon prove to be crucial in the unfolding events.
Two days later, Sheriff Kelly, a respected figure in the community known for his dedication to law and order, emerged from the post office on East Main Street. It was at this moment that “Crick” Davidson, the owner of a local garage, crossed the street with urgent news. He informed Sheriff Kelly about three suspicious men in a blue De Soto parked at his garage. Sensing trouble, Kelly, true to his duty, proceeded to investigate.
As Sheriff Kelly approached the car to question its occupants, the situation escalated rapidly. One of the men in the vehicle, later identified as Fred Barker and Alvin Karpis, infamous members of the “Ma” Barker Gang, opened fire, shooting Kelly four times. The brazen daylight attack sent shockwaves through West Plains, a community unaccustomed to such violent crime.
This self-guided tour is more than a historical walk; it's a journey into the soul of West Plains. Here, history is not confined to museums; it is etched in the streets, whispered by the buildings, and celebrated in the stories of its people. For locals, this tour is a rediscovery of their heritage, a source of pride in their hometown's resilience and character. For visitors, it’s an unexpected treasure, a chance to connect with the authentic heart of America. West Plains, with its rich tapestry of history, stands as a testament to the fact that one need not travel far to encounter the past; sometimes, it's just a short trip to downtown.
